I’ve known Casey Elsass for a number of years, but many in the food community already knew him as a prolific co-author of other cookbooks, including Dolci! with Renato Poliafito, Second Generation, and Let’s Eat. I’ve spent time with him in New York and in Paris, and now, I’m happy to share him with you.
Casey’s written a new book of his own, What Can I Bring?, which answers the eternal question hostesses and hosts are often asked by guests, with 75 recipes, ranging from Seven Onion Dip and Bagel Panzanella to Homemade Hot Fudge Sauce and these Subway Cookies. I asked Casey if he’d share some of his favorite tips on how to be a good guest, and what you should consider when you’re asked "What can I bring?”
These Subway Cookies have a special story attached to them (Spoiler: They’re not based on anything from the Subway chain) and are filled with all sorts of wonderful things, just like Casey, who wrote this guest post for the newsletter.
-David
Guest post by Casey Elsass
“What can I bring?”
It’s the first question everyone asks when you get the invite. And luckily, my new cookbook—this should be easy to remember, it’s called What Can I Bring?—has 75 delicious solutions to the very-stressful question, with dips, drinks, salads, desserts, and a chapter of homemade food gifts when you’re told to “just bring yourself.”
But it’s not only important to bring the right thing. It’s equally—if not more!—important to be the kind of guest everyone loves to have around. In the spirit of this guest post, here are a few simple rules that, in my opinion, will make you not just a good guest but a great one:
1. Be honest about what kind of guest you are. Remember this simple rubric: If you’re always on time, bring appetizers. If you’re reliably late, bring a drink. If you’re stopping by later, bring dessert. If you’re bringing nothing else, bring a present. Make sure you’re committing to a dish that matches your dillydallying or extremely punctual self.
2. Embrace room-temp food. The best guests show up with a dish that’s ready to go without needing a shelf in the fridge or a rack in the oven. Of course, some recipes are exceptions to this rule, so just clear it with your host ahead of time so they’re in on the plan. But never show up expecting to derail their careful game of culinary Tetris for something of your own.
3. Come prepared. Besides having your food ready to go, make sure you pack everything you need. Their home is not your Williams-Sonoma. Serving utensils, a big bowl, or special cups are your responsibility. For common things, like a knife to cut the cake, just ask ahead of time so you know you’re covered.
4. Say thank you. I once had a new friend over for a group dinner, and two business days later, there was a card sitting in my mailbox simply saying thank you. It’s a small but impactful gesture. Don’t be awkward and send your besties an earnest card (mail them the most inappropriate Hallmark card you can find), but if you’re new friends with someone or it was a very important event, a thank-you card is an old-fashioned gesture that still lands in this century. Even if a card isn’t right for the occasion, a simple text goes a long way to making your host feel seen and appreciated.
Of course, sometimes the best way to say thanks is with something sweet. Dessert seems to be the most common guest assignment, and that’s why my book includes not one but two chapters devoted to treats. These Subway Cookies are my go-to, no-fail, perfect-for-any-occasion move when you want to end the night on a sweet note. Now go forth and live your guest life!
Subway Cookies
Recipe and text reprinted with permission from What Can I Bring? by Casey Elsass © 2025. Published by Union Square & Co., an imprint of Grand Central Publishing, a division of Hachette Book Group.
Makes 12 cookies
From Casey:
I call these Subway Cookies because years ago when I was first developing this recipe, I packed a batch up and took them on the New York City subway with me. The deep black cocoa against the brown chocolate chips makes these oddly striking in person—really, you’ll be surprised—and the woman next to me was asking about them. After chatting for a minute, I asked, “. . . is this weird? Do you want one?” She quickly whipped out her empty meal prep container, and I gave her one. But when I cracked the lid open, the woman on my other side said, “Oh my god, those smell incredible. Can I buy one off you?” So I gave her one for free, and for a moment, three jaded New Yorkers were giggling over cookies on the subway.
From David:
Black cocoa is ultra-Dutch processed cocoa powder, and almost black in color, and has an especially intense flavor. You can find it at King Arthur Baking or at online retailers in the U.S. (Black cocoa is great to have on hand so you can make these Salty, Deep-Dark Chocolate Brownies.) Casey mentions in his “party tricks” at the end of the recipe that Hershey’s Special Dark is a good substitute, or you can use a European very dark cocoa powder, such as Valrhona or Cacao-Barry Extra Brute.
1⁄2 cup (115g, 4oz) unsalted butter, cubed
1⁄4 cup (65g) creamy peanut butter (see Party Tricks, below)
1⁄2 cup (100g) granulated sugar
1⁄2 cup packed (110g) light brown sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt (Casey uses Diamond Crystal)
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 large egg
1⁄4 cup (30 grams) black cocoa powder (see headnote, and Party Tricks, below)
1⁄2 teaspoon baking soda
1⁄2 teaspoon baking powder
1 cup (140g) all-purpose flour
One (12-ounce, 340g) bag bittersweet or semisweet chocolate chips
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
2-ounce (1⁄4-cup) cookie scoop (see Party Tricks, below)
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175ºC) and set a rack in the center. Line two rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper.
In a large saucepan, combine the butter and peanut butter. Set over low heat and whisk occasionally as the butter and peanut butter melt together. When they’re about 50 percent melted, remove from the stove and let the residual heat finish the job. Add the granulated sugar, brown sugar, and salt; whisk into a thick, soft paste. Add the vanilla and egg and immediately whisk. The mixture will seize up, but keep whisking until it’s nice and light.
Add the black cocoa, baking soda, and baking powder. Switch to a silicone or flexible rubber spatula and fold until completely combined into a glossy mixture. Add the flour and chocolate chips and fold, really getting around the sides and bottom of the pan, until it’s just combined but not overly mixed.
Use a cookie scoop to portion five scoops of dough—scraping on the side of the bowl so it’s a packed scoop—onto one of the prepared baking sheets, leaving 2 inches (5cm) between each scoop. Slide the baking sheet into the oven and set a timer for 12 minutes, turning the sheet around at 6 minutes, until the cookies are puffy and slightly spread. While that first batch bakes, scoop the second batch on the other baking sheet and slide it in as soon as the first one comes out. (And remember to set your timer!)
As soon as a sheet comes out of the oven, lift it a few inches above the counter and let it drop. Repeat two more times to flatten and spread the cookies, then let them cool completely on the baking sheet, about 1 hour. Repeat this process when the second sheet is done.
PARTY TRICKS FROM CASEY
I’ve tried a lot of peanut butter brands in these cookies, and my favorite by far is the original Jif. (Skippy is a very close second!) You might be tempted to reach for natural peanut butter instead, but when it comes to baking, the oil in natural peanut butter is going to cause more spread, less lift, and an unreliable texture.
Black cocoa powder is different from regular (natural) and even Dutch-processed cocoa powder. It has a deep black color (Oreos use it!) and a complex dark chocolate punch. It’s what really sets these cookies apart and can be easily purchased online. If it’s just not in the cards, Hershey’s Special Dark 100% cacao is a good substitute.
King Arthur’s Measure for Measure or Bob’s Red Mill’s 1 to 1 work great here for a gluten-free version.
If you don’t have a cookie scoop, just measure 1⁄4 cup into your palm and roll into a rough, imperfect ball.
The cooled cookies can be stacked in large airtight containers or zip-top bags and stored at room temperature for up to 3 days.
The cookies look good. But you know what sold me on the book? The seasoned oyster crackers.
Great “guesting” tips! I entertain a lot—not often invited to people’s homes—but I’ll remember these tips! And the cookie recipe looks great too!