August 2022 Newsletter
Mid-summer in Paris!
It’s been quite a ride lately with a number of things going on, the biggest being wrapping up the work on our new apartment and packing everything up and getting it over there. I don’t know which was harder, the former or the latter (all the various stories about the apartment search and renovation are categorized in the newsletter under Paris Apartment Stories…with more to come), but as anyone who’s renovated knows, you live in chaos for 1 to 24 months, and while you strive to be organized, at some point you just don’t have the time or the energy to keep at it.
We have been soldiering through, and when moving day came, just when I thought I’d reached my limit, I woke up early before the movers arrived, turned on my computer, and found myself facing the black screen of death. It’s been a lot, and I’m just happy we’re rounding the corner.
Romain was a champ, and you could not ask for a better person to keep on top of things; having a Parisian in your corner is always a good idea in Paris. We ran into a few issues, such as some things not being available, like not having kitchen counters (or a stove) because the kitchen-counter makers were waiting for the sink to arrive, which, after four months of waiting, we were told would not be arriving after all…along with a message from the cuisiniste (kitchen designer) that she was abandoning the project. That was followed by a message that they underbilled me. (Is it just me, or does it seems like I’m the one who’s owed a refund?)
If you’ve read L’Appart, you know I have quite a bit of experience finding sinks in France, but because I already have a variety of other full-time jobs, I was happy to let her (the professional) handle it, but now I’m back in the saddle of évier (kitchen sink) exploring, and I finally found one (1) that’s a big white ceramic basin, or two, with a hole for the faucet in the sink, not behind it, which is too far away for the faucet to reach, which I learned through experience in my former place.
Then there was the packing. There was a lot of stuff, from misc. Le Creuset pieces to vintage café au lait bowls that I could never resist when I came across them at a flea market. It wasn’t until I took everything out of my kitchen cabinets that I realized how much I had.
All of it was stuff I loved, but at some point, you have to let your loved ones go. I did have a little vide-grenier privé, a private give-away and sale for close friends in Paris to come and pick up everything from cocktail glasses, I had nearly 40, enough to open up a bar with!—to vintage jam jars (I had dozens of those, too). In the end, some things went to good homes, and the rest came with us.
(On a related note, someone — who wasn’t French — went off on me on social media once because they said the bowls, above, aren’t for drinking café au lait from, which I thought was curious since that’s what they’re called. I guess they know something I, and the rest of France, don’t?)
A number of folks were hoping I’d ship a Le Creuset pot to them in the comments of an IG post of my favorite retro Raymond Loewy casseroles (technically called coquelles), possibly not figuring in the expense and logistics of shipping a 15-pound (23kg) pot across the planet, not to mention taxes and duties on it for the recipient.
So they are staying here in France, where they were born. I promise to give them a good home…again but will refrain from buying any more for my collection. Well — unless I find another one that’s a bargain 😉
In other news, it’s August and while many locals have left, a (very) generous number of visitors have arrived. So parts of the city are quite crowded, and I’ve been surprised to see so many people on the métros, on the sidewalks, and in cafés and restaurants speaking all different languages, happy to be in Paris.
In between sorting, packing, and washing, and burying myself in appliance instruction manuals (I’m on page 38 of the induction stove guide…but the stove is now flashing an error message, so need to get someone here to reconnect it, which’ll be interesting during August vacation), I’ve been enjoying the summer produce, and even though most of the markets are sparse in the summer as the vendors want their vacances, too, since I don’t really have a stove, counter, sink, or oven (the oven is a whole ’nother story…for another time), you don’t need to do much to good fruits. Just enjoying them as they are is fine with me, because with my kitchen still under construction, I don’t have much of a choice. C’est la vie…
-David
Links I’m Liking
Wanna move to France? Design Mom recalls her experience on how to get a visa to do it. Pro Tip: Stock up on ink cartridges for your printer and have a penchant for paperwork. (Design Mom)
Inspiring stories of Arabic women finding community, and making a living, with their own cooking and baking channels on YouTube. (NYT/unlocked)
Plant-based pâtisseries sprouting up in Paris. (The Guardian)
I talked about my life in France with Andrew Zimmern in his newsletter. I met Andrew in France around 2006 (I think?) and couldn’t resist giving him a big hug at the end of the day. (Spilled Milk newsletter)
Where to eat in Paris in August. (Paris by Mouth)
France says Non to nitrates. (Saveur)
What’s the deal with all those “accidental” wrong-number texts… (Read Max)
This frozen Garibaldi slushy made with Campari and fresh orange juice sounds perfect for summer. Now if I can only figure out which box my blender is in…(Punch)
Why heatwaves in Paris are particularly punishing. (NYT/unlocked)
La Lessive de Paris
One of the first challenges I had when I arrived in France was finding fragrance-free laundry detergent. I scanned the grocery stores, some of which came in a variety of overly saturated colors, like purple and green, and smelled strongly of chemical fragrances. Even the hypoallergenic stuff for babies contained fragrance, which bothers my sensitive skin. (I guess French babies are tougher than I am.)
While more and more “natural” brands have emerged on the shelves, almost all of them have some sort of parfum listed in the ingredients. So I was thrilled to discover La Lessive de Paris. Made in Paris, this laundry detergent is biodegradable and comes in reusable glass bottles. It’s delivered by bike to any address in Paris and available unscented, as well as with all-natural fragrances, such as lavender and citrus. They make dishwashing liquid, too, which I haven’t tried.
If you want to give it a try, you can check out La Lessive de Paris using this link and get €4 off. (This isn’t a paid placement, but they’ll plant a tree or give me a liter of laundry detergent. With my 4-pack, I’m pretty set on detergent for a while😉so will be mostly planting trees.)
Recent Recipes and Newsletter Posts
I’m a huge fan of Joshua McFadden, ever since I opened up his first book, Six Seasons, which presented a whole new way of looking at (and cooking with) vegetables. In his fantastic new book, Grains for Every Season, Joshua tackles the versatility of grains, which I’m looking forward to exploring. (Once I get a kitchen, again.) In the meantime, these Blueberry-buckwheat scones with lemon glaze I made last month were a big hit, especially if you don’t skip the tangy lemon glaze!
My kitchen is coming along. Or was. So we’re on “minimal” baking and cooking service around here. I added a few more chapters to my Paris Apartment Stories with Part 6 and Part 6.5. I’ve got a few more chapters to add this month but am busy unpacking, looking for sinks, hanging curtains, and rebuilding my computer after it crashed. Our contractor was looking around our apartment the other day and said, “This place is a mess. What kind of gay men are you?” So we’ve got our work cut out for us—hang on…more stories are coming! (After we tidy up for our contractor, that is.)
’Tis the season…for ice cream. And while I’m happy to spoon up any and all scoops, if they’re doused or drizzled with salted butter caramel sauce, I’m especially all in.
Where is all the mustard in France? I discuss the mustard shortage in France, which who knew was coming? Mustard is the most important condiment in France and possibly one of the most important foods. Fortunately, I found a few jars of mustard at — of all places — a gardening shop in the countryside, so I’m set for a while. Whew! I didn’t realize that after mentioning I had enough mustard on hand, I’d get a slew of offers from people offering to send me a jar from the U.S. I’m all set — but thanks!
A lovely little café on the banks of…the train station, where I had a very good meal with a friend. Café Les Deux Gares may be between two gares (train stations), but you wouldn’t know it by the serene terrace, which has an expansive view of the skies of Paris. (A low wall separates diners from the train tracks and any noise.) It’s a wonderful little place in Paris that’s open in August.
Lastly, the legendary Joni Mitchell, at 78, returns to the stage after a brain aneurysm and a lengthy absence from performing. And I think we could all use some Joni Mitchell right about now…
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I am French and those bowls are definitely breakfast bowls(i.e., mostly for café au lait). Which doesn't mean they can't be used for anything else, mind (like soup).
And the sink search continues. What a time you and Romain are having. I know your new home is going to be everything you envisioned, so hang in there and “enjoy” the process. And eat lots of fruit! 😁❤️