July 2024 Newsletter

Summer's here…and here we go!

Most of us in Paris have whiplash from the last few weeks. The weather has changed from nonstop rainstorms to sunny skies and rising temperatures. But the other storm has been political, and after the recent European election (where the hard right had a particularly strong showing), Président Macron immediately dissolved the government. So yesterday we had our first round of parliamentary elections, with the next one being next Sunday, which will determine which direction(s)—socially and politically—France will be going in.

It’s a little complicated to explain the process but the NYT has a good write-up of how this French election works and what’s at stake. (Article unlocked) Either way, those disgruntled folks who’ve been saying, “I’m moving to France!”…may wait and see what happens after next Sunday’s final vote before applying for those visas. (On the other hand, you might want to start applying now, since they may become harder to get.)

In France, to vote, you’re sent a packet of fliers for all the candidates in an envelope with a plastic sleeve. At the polling center, they have all the fliers in piles there as well. To vote, you pick up at least three of the fliers from the stacks on the table (so no one can see exactly who you vote for), then you slip the one you want to vote for into an envelope in a private booth, then toss the others ones out that you didn’t use. (Now they have recycling bins next to the voting booths, but yes, it’s a country that still likes paper.) A person presides over the main voting box, who opens the hatch when you approach to drop your ballot into, who announces loudly, “A voté !” -when each person has voted.

A lot of people were surprised that the dissolution of the government is taking place right before the world turns its gaze on Paris for the Olympics, which the city is in a frenzy getting ready for. Most of the bridges over the Seine are already closed to traffic, as well as major streets, and even the stately Place de la Concorde is cordoned off. Métro ticket prices are almost doubling (as a courtesy to visitors? in the 2012 Olympics in London, transit was free…) but you can finally use your smartphone to buy and use tickets, although for some reason, I can’t buy tickets my phone. But if you’re planning to come, you might want to upload the RATP app and give it a try, to avoid lines at the ticket booths.

No one can quite predict the weather, which seems to change at least three times a day here, but I recommend bringing linen clothes, good walking shoes (as public transport will likely be crowded, and already taxis and Ubers are balking at taking people anywhere that involves crossing a river), a water bottle to stay hydrated, and maybe a battery-powered fan to keep your cool. Although last night I saw a man wearing a thick down jacket at dinner, when it was 73ºF/23ºC, so it’s hard to say what to pack.

In the middle of everything that’s been going on in Paris, last month I got zonked with Covid, which has been on the move. I had mild symptoms, and my doctor said just to rest, which is easier said than done in today’s world. Luckily, two friends who were already on their way to visit from Switzerland are a doctor and a chef, so I was well taken care of. And fortunately, I didn’t lose my taste, so could enjoy apéro hour with them in the backyard.

And let me tell you, there’s nothing better than having someone cook for you who you trust in your kitchen and who has the same taste as you. (We worked together at Chez Panisse.) So I ate really well. And having a doctor in the house isn’t bad either.

But I had to take a break from writing because my head was too foggy to type out anything coherent (although that’s never stopped me before…), and I was having a hard time finding something interesting to watch on one of the five or six (I can’t keep track) streaming services that we have. Even then, I’d doze off in the middle of a show, then would wake up and realize that I needed to re-watch Episode 3 of Muscles & Mayhem, the story of the American Gladiators on Netflix, because I fell asleep and missed what happened to Turbo, Storm, Nitro, Zap, and the other American Gladiators between Seasons three-to-five.

(I also watched Impeachment, which was fascinating to relive, in retrospect, what happened during that era, as well as watching the bravura performance by Sarah Paulson as Linda Tripp. And because I was looking to watch something else that wouldn’t be too challenging, I watched the documentary, Ashley Madison: Sex, Lies & Scandal, whose database of users looking for extramarital affairs was hacked and leaked.)

To help me feel better, I was also treated to some pastries from Tapisserie, one of which, my favorite, I’ve managed to re-create for my next book. And now that I’m back in good health, I’m in full-on recipe testing and writing mode to make up for lost time, so I can take my summer vacation as the rest of France does. Some of our friends are already on break from now until…September(!) 🇫🇷

Wild garlic ravioli with fava beans and summer truffles, and strawberries with fig leaf ice cream at Osteria Ferrara

I always find it amusing that people leave town just as the markets are going crazy with all sorts of summer fruits and berries, and even market merchants start taking off for their vacations. If I were them, I’d go on vacation in January or February because I always feel sorry for them standing outisde in the freezing cold with all their produce covered with ice crystals, when they could be sunning themselves on a beach somewhere.

In the meantime, cherries at the market are in full swing, and I’ve been buying lots and lots of them.

A few favorite recipes are Cherry Clafoutis, Cherry Jam, Cherries in Red Wine, and this Cherry Compote, which can be frozen and is nice to pull out of the freezer in the middle of the winter to serve with ice cream or sorbet for dessert, or with yogurt for breakfast.

We’re also in strawberry season, and there are so many varieties in France, it’s hard to keep track of them all. Rather than shop for variety, I just take a sniff, which is the best way to tell if a basket of strawberries is good or not. The berries should have a pronounced strawberry aroma.

I use strawberries to make Strawberry Vodka, Strawberry Spritzes, Strawberry Rhubarb Galette, Pickled Strawberries, and…yes, Strawberry Jam.

There’s no need to panic, unless you’re writing a chocolate book — gulp!…but cacao bean prices have skyrocketed worldwide, going up nearly 250% (although this article and another one are saying that cacao prices are plummeting), and a chocolate distributor in Paris told me that he only received a small fraction of his recent order.

The chocolate shelf at Metro, a professionals-only supply store.

Because I’m working on a lot of chocolate recipes right now, I went to Metro, a store for professionals in Paris, and the shelves were rather sparse. I don’t think you need to go crazy, since hoarding causes more shortages (unless you’re writing a chocolate book…), but if you like chocolate, it might be a good idea to pick up a little extra if you’re stock is running low, since no one wants to run out of chocolate. And if prices rise at your local bakery or chocolate shop, don’t take it out on them as they’re paying more. Just be thankful that you have access to chocolate, which is something you can’t put a price on.

-David

PS: If you’re looking for some delicious ways to refresh this summer (or you need a drink with all the mayhem going on, here and there), Drinking French is my guide to the French way of cooling down, and drinking up, with recipes for everything from sparking lemonade, ginger-spiked citronnade, frosty coffee and chocolate frappés and bubbly kir royals, to an array of cocktails, seasonal spritzes and apéritifs, with a chapter of savory snacks to go with any and all of them. Check it out!

WeBoat: Cruise on the Seine

Thanks to some nice friends who rented the boat, we took a ride up and down the Seine on the night of the annual Fête de la Musique, an annual event in France where musicians sing and play on the sidewalks, in the parks, and elsewhere. Some of the events get quite boisterous, and if you live in a popular neighborhood, or one with a lot of cafés and bars, you shouldn’t plan on getting much sleep that night. But it did give us a chance to be outside luxuriating in the warmer weather, while getting a different perspective on Paris, from the Seine.

They’d rented the boat through WeBoat, which includes the friendly captain, Ben, and his sister, Sarah, who helps run the boat. Our private “mini-cruise” was a 1 1/2-hour trip on the Seine. We brought our own wines and snacks, and they provided ice and unbreakable glasses, and there’s a very small WC onboard. Our friends made the arrangements, so if you book, feel free to ask what’s included and what you can bring. Prices vary depending on the number of people; you can book them for up to 12 passengers for a truly unique experience.

Links I’m Liking

You’re not imagining it. They’re making jalapeños less spicy now. (Delish)

A guide to eating in Paris, by arrondissement. And also…can we let croissants just be croissants? (Eater & Eater)

Good news! The Paris métro (line 14) now goes directly to Orly airport. (Paris Aéroports)

A good list of Natural Wine Bars to Visit in Paris. (Although, if you go to Aux Deux Amis, a server once told Romain that he was “lucky to be there,” which he had a few choice things to say about when he got home…) (Punch)

Pollution in Paris declines by 40% as more people are riding bikes than driving cars. (NBC News)

Europe moves to ban smoky snacks. (RFI)

Bartenders try their hand at making Chartreuse. (Punch)

Denmark recalls Korean ramen for being too spicy. (BBC)

Archaeologists find 35 bottles of perfectly preserved cherries under George Washington’s house. (NYT/article unlocked)

The Perfect Scoop is “the only ice cream book you’ll ever need.” 😊 (Cooks Without Borders)

Joshua David Stein interviews the Frenchest Chef in the World, Alain Ducasse, in New York. (Esquire)

I loved talking to baker Jessie Sheehan of Cherry Bomb’s She’s My Cherry Pie Podcast about chocolate, brownies, and Paris. (Cherry Bomb)

As mentioned, I took a deep dive into my Netflix queue while I was recovering on the couch—and decided to watch Muscle Mayhem: An Unauthorized Story of American Gladiators (don’t judge me), which reminded me of the week I spent with Zap (aka Raye Hollitt) in Costa Rica, which I have proof that I wasn’t imagining in my feverish haze…

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