L'Ami Louis

To be honest, I wasn’t necessarily keen on going to L’Ami Louis in Paris. There was a startling review by A.A. Gill a few years ago that began with the subtitle: “Given its colonic décor, surly service, unbelievable food, and hefty bill, the restaurant is a true Gallic triumph.” He ended his review on a scathing note that caused a stir in the food world…