32 Comments

I'm so happy to read this -- my husband & I went Spring of 2022 and were underwhelmed. The service felt rushed, the food was good but not stand-out. It also seemed to have become a "required" stop on the heavily American tourist itinerary. I love that neighborhood so we will give them another shot!

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I think they went through a period (perhaps just after Covid?) when they were figuring out how to move forward. Their other restaurant, Double Dragon, opened during the lockdown with take-out but like most restaurants in Paris, there was a tough transition period.

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Dec 10, 2023Liked by David Lebovitz

Margot of Combat Bar recommended this to me and it was one of the best experiences of our trip. The staff was stellar and the food exceptional. I’ve sent many!

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Dec 8, 2023Liked by David Lebovitz

Thanks for the great write up of one of my favorite local restos. I lived a few blocks away on Parmentier until 2016

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Dec 8, 2023Liked by David Lebovitz

Le Servan looks fabulous! I sell wine in the Boston area, and Beaujolais is definitely having a moment, but I've yet to come across AmalGamay .... I'm on the hunt! Happy holidays to you & Romain! Keep writing ... just love your entertaining newsletters!

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Wines from that part of France are some of my favorites. As you know, as a wine seller, people hear "Beaujolais" and they think of Beaujolais nouveau but there are really some terrific wines from there. Glad you like the newsletter!

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Dec 8, 2023Liked by David Lebovitz

You are so right! Georges Duboeuf didn’t do Beaujolais any favors when he gave the world Nouveau! Thankfully the wine drinking public is coming around to the beauty and versatility of Gamay.

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AmalGamay! I love that, so clever.

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Dec 8, 2023Liked by David Lebovitz

Husband and I ate there while in Paris in October. We loved the food and the atmosphere and felt like locals eating there.

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Glad you enjoyed it!

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Danger Will Robinson, this is a short stroll from my apartment in the 3rd and too tempting. I’m addicted to Korus on rue Amelot but need to branch out. The11th is a perilous place.

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What a delicious looking meal!😋

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I wonder if the big reds are being affected by climate change. Is it possible that the heat has intensified them, and that is why you are reacting to them?

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I don't know. I do know they add a lot of things to wine (according to wine writer Alice Feiring, there are something like 74 additives they can add to wine in France) and adding tannins is something they do. There's a lot of industrial wine in Bordeaux, in addition to all the very good wines they produce, and the cheap wines are likely very manipulated.

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Delightful, thank you!☺️

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Servan looks like a winner.... Have you had a chance to check out the new Krispy Kreme that opened in Paris? I know I know, I'm from the South, they are my favorite! :-)

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They just opened and to be honest, I'm not a huge doughnut fan. (And don't tell, but I never found Krispy Kremes to be all that special...) I also don't really crave doughnuts in Paris but if I do, Boneshaker is pretty great.

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Love your reviews. Can almost taste the food. Our last visit in September was a bit disappointing. We didn’t eat anywhere great except for something de Armor. (A place called Armor). A little confusing. But it was exceptional.

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Oh to be in Paris right now. At Servan. 🇫🇷

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I will join you! My, oh, my!

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Dec 7, 2023Liked by David Lebovitz

This looks like a perfect meal - those sardines on that bread, wow!! Will be getting there next time I am in Paris.

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Dec 7, 2023Liked by David Lebovitz

Hi David, I agree on the heavy reds. I like whites best but it seems most of my dining partners want red. I am ok with a nice Pinot Noir from anywhere really. But here in Italy I go for the reds from Chianti and from the Mount Etna area. Nice and pair well with food.

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I’ve gotten to the point where the heavy tannic reds hurt my mouth. I’ve heard from wine people that they add extra tannins in some red Bordeaux wines to reinforce the red color (not sure if that’s true or not tho...) but someone in the wine biz told me there was a big ad campaign to get people to drink Bordeaux and ...it worked.

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Dec 8, 2023Liked by David Lebovitz

Now that Robert Parker is no longer driving the Force Majeur of big reds, I have found that slowly the reds have a little more room for finesse! It was the inly thing I knew for years: if it scored high with Robert Parker, I would skip it.

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If that is true, it makes me sad.

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Dec 7, 2023Liked by David Lebovitz

Similarly, earlier this year I visited Le Servan for lunch, mainly as it’s close to the Ateliers des Lumieres. I hadn’t eaten there in years and was happy to find it as good as ever. My dessert of strawberry and chili sorbet with cream and meringue shard was superb!

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Yes when my friend suggested we go I realized that it had slipped off my radar. Happy that it’s better than ever!

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