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It's really hard to tell people to lower their voices. (I led tours for 15 years and it's a tricky subject.) At Taillevent, the owner, who was known for his tact, would gently stand behind someone who was talking loudly and (I think) gently put his hands on their shoulders. Unfortunately it's not just Americans being loud anymore and we've been seated next to very loud tables for locals, too. Fortunately in France restaurants don't play music, which heightens the noise level, although a few are starting to....

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