Forgot to mention that the item Noam placed his bowl on is called "Staybowlizer" and I bought mine on Amazon a number of years ago, where it's still available. The silicone material provides just the amount of stickiness needed to hold the bowl in place.
Merci for such a lovely vicarious experience in the Comice kitchen! What a delightful couple! Their restaurant sounds lovely and that soufflé has my mouth watering! Also a terrific informative video. Yesterday I attended a talk with Alice Waters and a showing of her documentary film "You Are What You Eat" here in Portland, Oregon. Of course, I was thinking of you during that, as they filmed a number of scenes in Chez Panisse. Also, Noam's comments about the French approach to food are much like what Alice experienced so long ago. The more things change...
Chez Panisse was founded on the principles in France (and Italy) of "market-based cooking" which seemed like a radical idea at the time Chez Panisse started. Since then, farmers markets have exploded across the country and even in the middle of New York City, the most urban space in America, there's a producers-only farmers market several days a week, and it's always crowded.
France went through a similar dip in embracing modernization but in the last few years, in Paris we've had a huge number of stores open that carry produce from small producers. There are 4 excellent ones just a few blocks from me, and I feel so fortunate...
Bonjour David, Fascinating video! Decades ago I went to a demo class on soufflés and just watching the technique is invaluable. I've always beaten my egg whites by hand when I make soufflés, mostly because my mother always beat egg whites by hand when she made her angel food cakes. I always thought it was an impressive feat to beat a dozen egg whites by hand! I was never able to beat egg whites with the classic French whisk. Instead I use the whisk my mom used, which is a spiral whisk. It's basically a wire loop, which has a spiral wire around the loop.
David, many thanks for posting the soufflé recipe - I can’t wait to make them.
You state an oven temperature of 200ºC, can you please confirm if this is for a fan-assisted oven or for that, should I reduce the temperature to 180ºC
Will make an effort to visit the Comice when I visit Paris later this year.
My home ovens have fans and I tested them in both, one without the fan, and the baking times that I gave were the same. (Home "convection" ovens generally aren't true convection - they just have a fan.) The baking times Chef Noam gives where in his professional convection oven, which is a true convection.
As mentioned, with soufflés, it's best to go by look and feel rather than exact baking times - I've made thousands of soufflés in restaurants, and that's what I did for each one : )
There's a quirk in Microsoft Word that I keep forgetting about, whereas is there's an accent on a letter (as there is in the case of soufflé) it doesn't download. I've removed the accent so it should be possible to download. If it doesn't, you can cut and paste the text into a Word or Word-type document and print it out that way. Thanks!
Thank you, David! What a fantastic video! I learned so many new ideas. I am fortunate to have a "made in France" copper bowl (no idea of the maker). I do not, however, have one of those nifty rings to hold it upright. Was Noam's a silicon ring? any brand recommendations? Also, I noticed when he whisked egg white into the ganache mixture that the flame was on under the pot. Did he leave it on a flame the whole time? Your recipe directions are how I have done it - off the flame.
Thank you for sharing Comice and its amazing owners with us!
I love that a souffle was the first thing you ever made at the young age of 11, with your mom out, left to your own devices lol! You could have done a lot of other things (neferious or otherwise) but you chose to cook 😁
It was funny because back then, chocolate was sold as "squares" and recipes would call for things like "1 square of chocolate." Nowadays no one knows what that is, and I think they either called it 'sweet chocolate' or 'baking chocolate' - which is so different from how we buy chocolate today.
One of the tricks of beating egg whites by hand is not to use your shoulder, which tires easily (which I learned after beating eggs whites for over a hundred soufflés, by hand, when I worked in restaurants.) If you can use your lower arm it helps, but many people use electric mixers, hand or stand - which works too!
This was soooo much fun, thank you! I mean, chocolate soufflés: old school, old hat, and yet...you showed they are not. And all that Mauviel. Such beauty. Could you talk a bit about the pan he used for the ganache? I have one of those but I'm not sure I fully understand the rounded sides business. Also, crème fraiche. I thought that was interesting too. I'm guessing it is for flavour but you talk about this at the end, how cream is a flavour on its own and I totally agree. Especially after a few months in London, I am missing my cream from the cheese lady at the market. Do you have anything to add to the cream discussion?
He used crème liquide which is also called crème entiere in French, which is called heavy or whipping cream in English. For some reason I said crème fraîche, but as the recipe says, use heavy or whipping cream. (But crème fraîche would work as well.) I clarified that in the headnote to the recipe.
Forgot to mention that the item Noam placed his bowl on is called "Staybowlizer" and I bought mine on Amazon a number of years ago, where it's still available. The silicone material provides just the amount of stickiness needed to hold the bowl in place.
Thanks for chiming in with the name!
Merci for such a lovely vicarious experience in the Comice kitchen! What a delightful couple! Their restaurant sounds lovely and that soufflé has my mouth watering! Also a terrific informative video. Yesterday I attended a talk with Alice Waters and a showing of her documentary film "You Are What You Eat" here in Portland, Oregon. Of course, I was thinking of you during that, as they filmed a number of scenes in Chez Panisse. Also, Noam's comments about the French approach to food are much like what Alice experienced so long ago. The more things change...
Chez Panisse was founded on the principles in France (and Italy) of "market-based cooking" which seemed like a radical idea at the time Chez Panisse started. Since then, farmers markets have exploded across the country and even in the middle of New York City, the most urban space in America, there's a producers-only farmers market several days a week, and it's always crowded.
France went through a similar dip in embracing modernization but in the last few years, in Paris we've had a huge number of stores open that carry produce from small producers. There are 4 excellent ones just a few blocks from me, and I feel so fortunate...
Bonjour David, Fascinating video! Decades ago I went to a demo class on soufflés and just watching the technique is invaluable. I've always beaten my egg whites by hand when I make soufflés, mostly because my mother always beat egg whites by hand when she made her angel food cakes. I always thought it was an impressive feat to beat a dozen egg whites by hand! I was never able to beat egg whites with the classic French whisk. Instead I use the whisk my mom used, which is a spiral whisk. It's basically a wire loop, which has a spiral wire around the loop.
Delightful! No notes, as I will not be attempting this. Just here for the vicarious thrills.
Thank you very much David for your fast response and advice
Regards
Lou
David, many thanks for posting the soufflé recipe - I can’t wait to make them.
You state an oven temperature of 200ºC, can you please confirm if this is for a fan-assisted oven or for that, should I reduce the temperature to 180ºC
Will make an effort to visit the Comice when I visit Paris later this year.
Best wishes
Lou
My home ovens have fans and I tested them in both, one without the fan, and the baking times that I gave were the same. (Home "convection" ovens generally aren't true convection - they just have a fan.) The baking times Chef Noam gives where in his professional convection oven, which is a true convection.
As mentioned, with soufflés, it's best to go by look and feel rather than exact baking times - I've made thousands of soufflés in restaurants, and that's what I did for each one : )
David, I can't get the recipe to download. Am I doing something wrong.
There's a quirk in Microsoft Word that I keep forgetting about, whereas is there's an accent on a letter (as there is in the case of soufflé) it doesn't download. I've removed the accent so it should be possible to download. If it doesn't, you can cut and paste the text into a Word or Word-type document and print it out that way. Thanks!
Thanks David! It worked perfectly...now I need that beautiful cooper bowl. Gail
Found the bowl stand from Matfer Boutgeat!
Was able to purchase via Amazon
It’s listed as:
Matfer Bourgeat Mixing Bowl Stand
Wow! This was really great. So much information packed into that video. I hope we see more like this!
Thank you, David! What a fantastic video! I learned so many new ideas. I am fortunate to have a "made in France" copper bowl (no idea of the maker). I do not, however, have one of those nifty rings to hold it upright. Was Noam's a silicon ring? any brand recommendations? Also, I noticed when he whisked egg white into the ganache mixture that the flame was on under the pot. Did he leave it on a flame the whole time? Your recipe directions are how I have done it - off the flame.
Thank you for sharing Comice and its amazing owners with us!
Thank you! Your link sent me down a great rabbit hole. All best wishes
You can get those rings for bowls, which they often sell with the bowl: https://www.couteauxduchef.com/bols-et-raviers/18008-cul-poule-mastrad-24cm-inox-base-antiderapante-amovible.html
I don't know what they're called in English, but likely you could find them online, but I don't know any specific brands.
When I made the soufflé base I did turn the heat off.
Matfer Bourgeat Mixing Bowl Stand
This is brand i found - purchased on Amazon.
Thanks for sharing!
especially loved watching this souffle mélange of you and Chef Noam...bravo
Looks almost good enough to make me want to stop nomading and have a proper kitchen!
I love that a souffle was the first thing you ever made at the young age of 11, with your mom out, left to your own devices lol! You could have done a lot of other things (neferious or otherwise) but you chose to cook 😁
It was funny because back then, chocolate was sold as "squares" and recipes would call for things like "1 square of chocolate." Nowadays no one knows what that is, and I think they either called it 'sweet chocolate' or 'baking chocolate' - which is so different from how we buy chocolate today.
Thank-you! So interesting! I also learned a lot. I have the bowl and the whisk but don’t think I am capable of beating it by hand.
One of the tricks of beating egg whites by hand is not to use your shoulder, which tires easily (which I learned after beating eggs whites for over a hundred soufflés, by hand, when I worked in restaurants.) If you can use your lower arm it helps, but many people use electric mixers, hand or stand - which works too!
Thank you so much. I dined at Comice in June after reading your post about it and loved the chocolate soufflé. I’m so excited to try this!
This was soooo much fun, thank you! I mean, chocolate soufflés: old school, old hat, and yet...you showed they are not. And all that Mauviel. Such beauty. Could you talk a bit about the pan he used for the ganache? I have one of those but I'm not sure I fully understand the rounded sides business. Also, crème fraiche. I thought that was interesting too. I'm guessing it is for flavour but you talk about this at the end, how cream is a flavour on its own and I totally agree. Especially after a few months in London, I am missing my cream from the cheese lady at the market. Do you have anything to add to the cream discussion?
He used crème liquide which is also called crème entiere in French, which is called heavy or whipping cream in English. For some reason I said crème fraîche, but as the recipe says, use heavy or whipping cream. (But crème fraîche would work as well.) I clarified that in the headnote to the recipe.
Sorry I didn’t read the head note… and you went to the effort of making it! But good to know they are interchangeable, I’ve never been certain