David, this was a great dual publication on your travels to SW France. As a foodie and lover of brocantes, I was engrossed in it. I especially appreciate your link to the various routiers in France. I feel as if I don't see them (or perhaps recognize them as such) very much anymore. You also mentioned Courtepaille, a restaurant often linked to airport hotels. Doesn't that mean "short straw," like you got the worst pick of the lot? I always forget to ask my French friends about that one. Seemed like an unfortunate choice of name, unless it means or suggest somethings else in French.
There is nothing more disappointing that getting a meal, that you know you could have cooked better at home, in fact the last time this happened to me I sent them my recipe for them to compare. There have been times I have asked to see the menu again so I can check to see if what I thought I ordered, and was on my plate compared with what was on the menu. Don’t mess around with me when it comes to food I am paying for.
David, wonderful story about the huge amount of figs you two brought home. I can relate to the quantity carried, as well as your stop-gap preservation method and the frenzy of jam-making once home. Bravo. I am waiting for my figs to ripen while checking that no industrious squirrels have robbed us of our treasures. Those little creatures can be brutal thieves...
How big IS your car? All the flea market stops, the fig cartons, etc. And a table riding upside down on the roof of the car! Are you a pack rat or just love interesting things? I also love “the find”, so I sympathize.
I don't know but my guess is they were cooked first then fried in some sort of fat. French potatoes tend to taste very good regardless of how they are cooked and there were no exception : )
I've used duck fat in an air fryer and it works really well. Maybe check the instructions with yours to make sure what kinds of fats and oils are suitable for it....hopefully duck fat is on that list!
My French family is in Châteauroux so I’m disappointed you didn’t have a better dining experience there. However, it sounds like you had good seafood and I envy your garden table (despite transporting it for a week). I just got a new house with a big garden and your posts of outdoor life are inspiring me.
We were disappointed as well but realized next time, eat in the brasserie, which is more down-to-earth and fun. There is a great Emmaïs thrift store in Délios that was fruitful.
David have you ever eaten in an Auto Grill? We see them each year when driving in the Milan area but have never stopped. I have read they actually have decent food.
We did last time we were in Italy and the sandwich was just ok (although it was a pretty small Autogrille.) We've eaten at the ones in France which were fine, like the old Courtepaille restaurants (which are sadly gone) but the sandwich I had was really terrible. There are Paul bakeries at some of the rest stops whose sandwiches are pretty decent for road food.
Thanks. I think we will stick to our current routine of just keep driving along! Although at a gas station/market/bathroom stop in Switzerland the food looked so good that my husband has the picture he took on his laptop display! Looks like they even baked their own breads and pizza there. Nothing looked shabby...but....then again, it was Switzerland. They just don't seem to do shabby.
As I read your routier experience, I keep thinking of American truck stop/gas stations: greasy fried chicken, hot dogs on steam rollers, not a fruit or vegetable in sight. And you had whelks and oysters? Oh my, even with stale bread, that is a horse of a different color. Thanks for your intimate picture of your whole trip. Even without recipes, your descriptions and pictures always give me ideas to improvise.
We love stopping at Routiers. This one is a little more dressed up, and families and others in the area also go for dinner there. But we do like the ones along the autoroutes where all the truck drivers eat.
My favorite place for oysters is le St Barth (near Marseillan) on the Étang de Thau a bit north of where you were. There one is almost in the water and the oysters are their production. They also make a brasucade of moules and that’s it. And they have excellent Picpoul (local white wine). Vaut le voyage.
I like Picpoul a lot (I discovered it when I was writing Drinking French and visiting Noilly Prat) and you're right - it goes really well with oysters and other local seafood.
Bonjour David, I absolutely loved opening your newsletter on a Fall like Saturday, here in Pennsylvania 🇺🇸….needless to say, it cried out for a glass of French wine🤷♀️…..every time you go on about Figs, i swear to try to like them….still don’t though😬….I can imagine you and Romain at every stop on your journées …….Bon weekend!
What a nice, low key trip. Thanks for sharing. I'd not thought of Chateauroux Air Force Base in forever. I went to Paris American HS in the 60s & we played them in football. Happy memories.
Merci for the wonderful narrative. I need to go to France.
David, this was a great dual publication on your travels to SW France. As a foodie and lover of brocantes, I was engrossed in it. I especially appreciate your link to the various routiers in France. I feel as if I don't see them (or perhaps recognize them as such) very much anymore. You also mentioned Courtepaille, a restaurant often linked to airport hotels. Doesn't that mean "short straw," like you got the worst pick of the lot? I always forget to ask my French friends about that one. Seemed like an unfortunate choice of name, unless it means or suggest somethings else in French.
There is nothing more disappointing that getting a meal, that you know you could have cooked better at home, in fact the last time this happened to me I sent them my recipe for them to compare. There have been times I have asked to see the menu again so I can check to see if what I thought I ordered, and was on my plate compared with what was on the menu. Don’t mess around with me when it comes to food I am paying for.
The Figs sound amazing!
Thanks for sharing your September getaway.
I'd love to know which kinds of rice were in the mix and whether they were cooked in stock or something. We love rice at our house.
I'm very glad to have that website guide to the routiers!
David, wonderful story about the huge amount of figs you two brought home. I can relate to the quantity carried, as well as your stop-gap preservation method and the frenzy of jam-making once home. Bravo. I am waiting for my figs to ripen while checking that no industrious squirrels have robbed us of our treasures. Those little creatures can be brutal thieves...
How big IS your car? All the flea market stops, the fig cartons, etc. And a table riding upside down on the roof of the car! Are you a pack rat or just love interesting things? I also love “the find”, so I sympathize.
it's just a regular "break," as it's called in French. It's a car with a hatchback in the back. It holds a lot!
The potatoes at La Touteka looks so delish! Can you tell us how they were finished?
I don't know but my guess is they were cooked first then fried in some sort of fat. French potatoes tend to taste very good regardless of how they are cooked and there were no exception : )
Thanks so much for your reply. Wondering if I could use duck fat instead of olive oil next time I do potatoes in my air fryer.
I've used duck fat in an air fryer and it works really well. Maybe check the instructions with yours to make sure what kinds of fats and oils are suitable for it....hopefully duck fat is on that list!
Thanks again! I will check and it better be safe to use!!! The idea just struck me looking at those mouth watering potatoes.
My French family is in Châteauroux so I’m disappointed you didn’t have a better dining experience there. However, it sounds like you had good seafood and I envy your garden table (despite transporting it for a week). I just got a new house with a big garden and your posts of outdoor life are inspiring me.
We were disappointed as well but realized next time, eat in the brasserie, which is more down-to-earth and fun. There is a great Emmaïs thrift store in Délios that was fruitful.
David have you ever eaten in an Auto Grill? We see them each year when driving in the Milan area but have never stopped. I have read they actually have decent food.
I've had good meals in the Italian ones.
We did last time we were in Italy and the sandwich was just ok (although it was a pretty small Autogrille.) We've eaten at the ones in France which were fine, like the old Courtepaille restaurants (which are sadly gone) but the sandwich I had was really terrible. There are Paul bakeries at some of the rest stops whose sandwiches are pretty decent for road food.
Thanks. I think we will stick to our current routine of just keep driving along! Although at a gas station/market/bathroom stop in Switzerland the food looked so good that my husband has the picture he took on his laptop display! Looks like they even baked their own breads and pizza there. Nothing looked shabby...but....then again, it was Switzerland. They just don't seem to do shabby.
As I read your routier experience, I keep thinking of American truck stop/gas stations: greasy fried chicken, hot dogs on steam rollers, not a fruit or vegetable in sight. And you had whelks and oysters? Oh my, even with stale bread, that is a horse of a different color. Thanks for your intimate picture of your whole trip. Even without recipes, your descriptions and pictures always give me ideas to improvise.
We love stopping at Routiers. This one is a little more dressed up, and families and others in the area also go for dinner there. But we do like the ones along the autoroutes where all the truck drivers eat.
My favorite place for oysters is le St Barth (near Marseillan) on the Étang de Thau a bit north of where you were. There one is almost in the water and the oysters are their production. They also make a brasucade of moules and that’s it. And they have excellent Picpoul (local white wine). Vaut le voyage.
I like Picpoul a lot (I discovered it when I was writing Drinking French and visiting Noilly Prat) and you're right - it goes really well with oysters and other local seafood.
Bonjour David, I absolutely loved opening your newsletter on a Fall like Saturday, here in Pennsylvania 🇺🇸….needless to say, it cried out for a glass of French wine🤷♀️…..every time you go on about Figs, i swear to try to like them….still don’t though😬….I can imagine you and Romain at every stop on your journées …….Bon weekend!
Glad you liked reading it!
What a nice, low key trip. Thanks for sharing. I'd not thought of Chateauroux Air Force Base in forever. I went to Paris American HS in the 60s & we played them in football. Happy memories.
Yum Yum. The south of France is my favorite destination. Thanks for your pics and places.