A pocket-size sandwich shop, café, and wine bar in Paris.
We went to Olga today. It was so lovely!! Thanks for writing about it. The fountainebleau came with rhubarb today and was delicious. The wine was also great. We then walked to G Detou. It was a long way in the heat but we saw a lot of interesting places.
Morning from Vancouver Island.
I wrote a note about natural wines when I received this newsletter and then, I don't know how, it disappeared into the ethernet!
I was in the wine business for over 25 years. I opened my wine store in 1992 in Alberta, Canada. The province had privatized the sale of alcohol and I applied for, and received, a license to sell wine. I was not a wine expert when I opened my store, but I loved cooking, eating, and enjoying wine with my efforts.
Over the years I learned a great deal about wine from wine makers, wine merchants in other countries, and from my customers. I learned that 90% of my customers wanted a wine to enjoy, the day it was bought, with dinner or with friends and at a reasonable price. Very few asked if it was organic, biodynamic, or more recently, "natural".
If anything the biggest concern was allergic reactions, mostly from high tannins.
The term "natural" wine refers to a "movement" by winemakers to move toward production that is less reliant on chemicals as well as using more traditional practices and native yeasts. Important to remember that just because a wine is "natural" doesn't mean it tastes good. Like food, all is in the hands of the winemaker, and before she/he, the viticulturalist.
Imbedded in the moniker "natural" wine is "orange" wine. The two are sometimes used synonymously. Orange wine is white wine made with the skins left on. This gives the wine an amber hue. The flavor is bold and more acidic.
All of the above creates a minefield for customers. Wine is intimidating enough without "experts" jumping on this or that band wagon.
My advice. Find a wine merchant you trust, someone who will help you explore your tastes without making you feel guilty about what you purchase.
David - I watched your IG Live this am - so enjoyable always! I mentioned asparagus pesto. I have my own asparagus bed and sometimes you get spears that are ugly (crooked, curled) or too large etc. These are ideal for pesto. Maybe the person at the market selling them has discards you can get inexpensively? Anyway - here's the recipe I use: 1 lb asparagus, trimmed to 2" segments; 1 clove garlic (+/- to taste); 1/4 c pine nuts; 1/4 c olive oil; juice of 1/2 lemon; freshly grated parm. Cook asparagus until tender - not mushy. save some cooking liquid for thinning if needed; put all ingredients (except parm) in blender/processor and pulse to desired consistency. Season to taste. Top with parm and a squeeze of lemon if you like. Toss on pasta, toast, etc. Given your vast experience - if you play with this and come up with a better recipe - please share! Love to you and Romain. Bon weekend!
David, at the recommendation of Leu2500 I tried Chez Nous in Charleston and besides the incredible food, had my first glass of Aligote. I found it delicious.
Great cheese reporting! The nougat sounds like a fabulous zero-waste approach to cheese. Thanks for the great post -- it inspired me to be a paid subscriber. I also lovers your recent podcast episode with my cheese pal Jennifer Greco!
I love that you talk about Fontainebleu! I've never tried to make it in the States but it is such a special treat when we are in Paris. We stay very near to Barthelémy and save all our calories for this indulgence!
Wow this all looks beautiful!
Bread, cheese and wine. If I could only eat/drink 3 things for life😂
Wow, the prices on that board are insanely reasonable. That sounds wonderful.
I appreciated your explanation of aligot vs aligoté. I've had aligot in the Auvergne, and it does indeed stretch--your stomach!
Hi David, like other commenters, I was going to ask if you had a recipe for that nougat. I googled a bit, but all I could find was a lot of recipes using goat cheese and gelatine, but this looks different. Maybe this is like a fromage fort, but firmed up with gelatine?
Olga looks great. Is there a recipe for the cheese 'nougat'? I would love to make it. Thank you.
Well this looks adorable, and on such a dud block, too. I'm transfixed by the nougat — is it made like fromage fort, but stiffer?
Well, you can call it a day. Your job is done. My mouth has not stopped watering since reading your wonderful description of Olga. I may just hop on a plane......
David thank you for keeping us in the loop on Paris eating and drinking establishments. Olga looks like another “must” and worth the extra effort just like Craven. And while there a stroll on the precursor of the highline.
Can’t wait to try out the Fontainebleau recipe. It looks amazing in both simplicity and taste! I see a trip to Olga in my future.
David, if you ever visit Charleston, the restaurant Chez Nous serves fountainbleu sometimes.